Jeerang: A Walk Through Mini Tibet and a Missing Truth
Story: S A Spencer
Author of Popular Fictions: The Pink Mutiny, The Black Waters, Dream In Shackles
The
Missing Truth
“I saw a child’s photo on a green board. It wasn’t a missing
person poster—it was a missing truth.”
Gedhun Choekyi Nyima was six years old when he was abducted
by Chinese authorities in 1995. He had just been recognized by the Dalai Lama
as the 11th Panchen Lama, one of the most revered figures in Tibetan Buddhism.
Since then, no one has seen him. No photos. No public
appearances. No verified updates. The Chinese government claims he is safe and
doesn’t want to be disturbed. But the Tibetan community—and much of the
world—believes otherwise.
The signboard I saw was placed by the Tibetan Women’s
Association. It wasn’t loud. It wasn’t angry. It was a quiet plea. A reminder
that some truths are still waiting to be acknowledged.
The photo was faded, the edges curled from years of weather.
Yet the child’s eyes seemed to hold a silent story—a story of innocence lost
and a future stolen. The green board stood quietly against the backdrop of
fluttering prayer flags, as if guarding a secret that the wind dared not carry
away.
Arrival
in Jeerang
I didn’t come to Jeerang with a checklist. No itinerary, no
must-see spots. Just a quiet curiosity about this place people call "Mini
Tibet" tucked into the folds of Odisha’s Eastern Ghats. On December 2nd, I
found myself winding through the hills, past pineapple farms and eucalyptus
groves, until the road opened into a valley that felt like it belonged to
another country.
Prayer flags fluttered in the breeze, their colors vibrant
against the crisp blue sky. Monks in maroon robes walked with quiet purpose,
their footsteps soft on the earth. The air was cool and fragrant with pine and
earth, the silence deep but alive with whispers of ancient chants.
I had arrived in Jeerang.
A Slice
of Tibet in Odisha
Jeerang is part of the Chandragiri Tibetan Settlement,
established in the early 1960s after the Chinese invasion of Tibet. Refugees
fleeing persecution were granted land here by the Indian government. What began
as a survival effort slowly transformed into a thriving cultural enclave.
The centerpiece is the Padmasambhava Mahavihara Monastery,
inaugurated by His Holiness the Dalai Lama in 2010. Its golden spires gleamed
in the sunlight, intricate murals told stories of compassion and resilience,
and massive prayer wheels turned slowly, echoing centuries of faith.
Locals call this place Phuntsokling, meaning "Land of
Plenty and Happiness." It’s not just a name—it’s a promise kept by
generations who rebuilt their lives here.
Wandering
Without a Map
I walked past stupas and prayer halls, watched children in
traditional dress rehearse dances, and exchanged smiles with elders who sat in
the sun chanting mantras. There was no rush. No pressure to document. Just the
joy of being.
Then I saw it.
A green signboard. A child’s photo. Bold white letters: “FREE
PANCHEN LAMA – MISSING SINCE 1995.”
Why
Jeerang Cares
Jeerang has no direct link to Gedhun Choekyi Nyima. He was
taken from Tibet, and this village is thousands of kilometers away. But the
pain of exile is shared. The longing for justice is communal.
In Tibetan Buddhism, the Panchen Lama plays a vital role in
identifying the next Dalai Lama. By abducting him, the Chinese government
disrupted a centuries-old spiritual tradition. For communities like Jeerang,
this isn’t just politics—it’s a spiritual wound.
The signboard is their way of keeping the story alive. Of
saying, “We remember.”
Conversations
Over Butter Tea
Later that day, I sat with a monk who had lived in Jeerang
since childhood. Over cups of butter tea, he spoke of the early days—how
families arrived with nothing, how they built homes from scratch, how they
taught their children to read and pray.
When I asked about the Panchen Lama, his eyes softened. “He
is our child,” he said. “Even if we never see him, we will never forget him.”
Not a
Travel Blog
This isn’t a travel blog. I didn’t come to review hotels or
rate food. I came to listen. To observe. To feel.
Jeerang isn’t a destination—it’s a story. A living archive of
exile, faith, and quiet resistance.
The monastery is beautiful, yes. The hills are stunning. But
what stayed with me was that green board. That child’s photo. That missing
truth.
What You
Can Do
If you ever visit Jeerang, pause at that signboard. Read the
words. Let them sink in.
You can:
- Learn more about the Panchen
Lama’s story.
- Share it with others.
- Support Tibetan advocacy groups.
- Reflect on the power of memory
and the cost of silence.
Leaving
Jeerang
As I left Jeerang, the prayer flags waved me goodbye. The
hills stood silent, as if holding secrets. And I carried with me a story I
hadn’t expected to find.
A child missing. A truth waiting. A village remembering.
Jeerang isn’t just Mini Tibet. It’s a mirror. And sometimes,
mirrors show us what we’ve forgotten to see.
Author’s
Note: This post is
not meant to be political. It is meant to be human. If you’ve read this far,
thank you. May we all remember the truths that others try to erase.
S A Spencer- I will bring more stories for your entertainment. Please follow me on Facebook and Twitter so that you know when a new story comes.
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Beautiful, I have experienced the newly arrival of the Tibetan but to my experience they mingle with the local without much difficulty because were well received by the local not because they looked like one of us culturally very close to us but they came with Dharma , that is what then our elders were looking for , my mother always used to say their loss looks like our gain ,we are blessed by having in our door so be kind to them ,they are not refugees but our guests for time being but one day they will be back to their country , many years passed by my mother didn't see them going back , but there are people who are still dream of going back to their home n rebuild what was taken away by the unfortunate dark shadow , like my mother now I also do have strong belief that one day they will once again build Jeerang in their land .
ReplyDeleteSome Tibetans come to my town, Seoni MP , every winter, to sell woollen clothes. They are really very descent n honest n lovable people.
ReplyDelete